Mostar stole our hearts from the first glance. The turquoise Neretva River, the iconic Stari Most bridge, and the cobblestone streets of the old town make it unforgettable. Wandering around, tasting traditional Bosnian food, and soaking in the city’s mix of cultures, Catholic, Orthodox, and Muslim, we felt its unique magic everywhere.
take me back to the heart of mostar
If you’re looking for a place that truly stays with you, Mostar should be on your list. This place is perfect if you love slow travel: getting lost in small streets, tasting traditional food, drinking good coffee and enjoying good vibes only. It’s affordable, welcoming and compact, yet incredibly rich in atmosphere.
If you want a destination that goes beyond pretty photos and offers genuine experiences, Mostar is a place you’ll remember long after you’ve left.
We drove from Split to Mostar and highly recommend it. The route takes you through stunning landscapes and along the Dalmatian coast, simply breathtaking. A word of caution: Crossing the border between Croatia and Bosnia can take a bit longer during peak season. So, it’s best to allow extra time and stay relaxed. There are also many alternative routes and options for getting to Mostar.
Driving is generally the most flexible option, and the journey is also very relaxing and quite scenic.
The main roads are in good condition, and the drive is pleasant. The closer you get to Mostar, the more winding and narrow the roads become.
There are several parking lots in Mostar, especially near the old town. It can get crowded quickly in the summer, so it’s worth leaving early or walking a bit to explore the city’s charming corners.
You don’t need a toll or vignette for most of the roads between Split and Mostar. Depending on your starting point, there may be distance-based tolls on certain sections of the motorway. However, there is generally no nationwide vignette required in Bosnia and Herzegovina.
Buses run regularly from Split, Sarajevo, Banja Luka, and other major cities to Mostar. Mostar is connected to Sarajevo by a scenic railway line, which is also the only rail connection in the region. The route is said to be very beautiful, but we can’t say much about it.
Bus companies that travel to Mostar include:
FlixBus, Arriva, Centrotrans and local providers.
Mostar does have its own airport, but it’s very small. It’s more of a regional airport and offers only a few seasonal flights.
If you’re traveling from Germany, Austria, Switzerland, or other countries, mostly in Europe, it’s worth booking flights via Zagreb, Split, Dubrovnik, or Sarajevo. From there, you can travel to Mostar by rental car (note: check rental car regulations for border crossings), bus, or guided tour.
We chose to travel by car and would do it again. Flexibility, spontaneous stops, and the opportunity to enjoy nature make the drive particularly pleasant. Road conditions are usually good, and the journey itself is an adventure.
The famous Stari Most (Old Bridge) is the eponymous landmark of Mostar and is part of the impressive culture in Bosnia and Herzegovina. The Stari Most Bridge is undoubtedly the most famous and most visited attraction in the city. It connects the more Muslim-influenced eastern part of the city with the more Catholic-influenced western part of the city.
Since the 17th century, people have been throwing themselves from the Old Bridge in Mostar, Bosnia, into the ice-cold waters of the Neretva. Nowadays the bridge is also a competition venue for the Red Bull cliff divers, who jump down from the 20 meter high bridge.Overall, our July visit combined warm summer days with refreshing mountain air, making it our personal favorite time to experience Innsbruck.
A pristine river that is ideal for kayaking, paddling, rafting and swimming. The Neretva is one of the most important and significant rivers in Bosnia and Herzegovina. The water originates from the mountains of the country, not far from the capital Sarajevo. With its unique colors, it is certainly one of the most beautiful rivers in Europe. After around 225 kilometers, the Neretva flows into the Adriatic Sea. It flows 203 kilometers through Bosnia and Herzegovina and 22 kilometers into Croatia.
It is one of the most beautiful and interesting mosques in Mostar. From here you have a wonderful view of the city and the surrounding region. The picturesque mosque dates back to the Ottoman Empire and was built in 1618/19. The Koski-Mehmed Pasha Mosque was built on a rock above the Neretva north of the craftsmen’s quarter of Mostar.
The picturesque old town with the beautiful old bazaar Kujundziluk along a cobbled street, is a truly fascinating and great place in Mostar that you should definitely visit. In the bazaar are countless shops, restaurants, cafés, bars and many small corners to explore. A great place with lots of bright colors.
The small, pretty curved stone bridge, which is very similar to the large Stari Most Bridge, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site along with the Old Town here in Mostar. It dates back to the Ottoman period and spans the small river Radobolja.
A mosque located in the predominantly Muslim eastern part of Mostar. It was built in 1557 and is one of the largest mosques in Herzegovina. Here, too, you can climb the high minaret of the Karadozbeg Mosque and it can generally be visited outside of prayer times. The inner courtyard with the washing pavilion, fountain and old gravestones, is also interesting.
Around 10 kilometers southeast of Mostar is a small village called Blagaj. Here you will find a picturesque place called the Dervish Monastery. Behind a high mountain wall and at your feet the crystal clear Buna River. A popular excursion destination from Mostar. In the immediate vicinity of the Dervish Monastery are several restaurants where you can eat very well and cheaply.
You can also see the Dervish Monastery from inside, it costs 10KM (around 5€) and can only be paid in cash (as of summer 2023). Many places even accept euros.
From here you have a wonderful view over Mostar and the entire surrounding area. The great city panorama is located about 20 minutes by car from the center. The road to Fortica Hill is relatively well developed. Here you have a glass viewing platform, there is a restaurant and a large parking lot. Many people also come here because there is a super cool zip line. They say that the view over Mostar while ziplining is incredible.
If you’re planning a trip to Mostar, spring and early autumn are perfect. We visited in early July and the weather was fantastic, warm, sunny days and cooler evenings. The city really comes alive during this time, and strolling along the cobblestone streets or over the Stari Most bridge is a delight.
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Rainiest months: May and October can be a bit weather, so pack a light raincoat just in case.
Winter: Mostar does see occasional snow, but it’s usually light and doesn’t last long.
Visiting in summer means long, sunny days perfect for exploring, but spring and autumn offer milder temperatures and fewer crowds, giving a more relaxed experience.
There are several very good hotels and apartments here. The people here are also very hospitable. We stayed one night at the *Hotel Villa Milas and can absolutely recommend it. With its own parking lot, the hotel is around a 5-minute walk from the famous bridge.
If it’s your first time in Mostar, staying within walking distance of Stari Most and the old town is unbeatable. You’re right in the heart of the action, cobblestone streets, local cafés, historic mosques and bridges all around. In the morning and early evening, this area is magical as the light hits the Neretva River.
We stayed in this area during our visit and loved being able to walk everywhere, no need for taxis or buses and we could watch the bridge divers from a café just a few steps from our hotel.
Just beside the old town, this charming neighborhood offers more traditional Bosnian guesthouses and boutique inns. It’s a bit quieter but still just minutes from the main sights. If you want authentic local character and hospitality, this is a great choice.
A short walk from the old town, you’ll find newer hotels and riverside accommodations with modern amenities and sometimes incredible views of the Neretva. These places often have larger rooms, breakfast included, and easier parking if you’re driving.
We personally preferred a place within walking distance of Stari Most and center. It made exploring so easy and let us soak up the atmosphere at all hours of the day.
When it comes to food, Mostar is the right place for you. There are a number of fantastic restaurants along the old town, bazaar and Neretva. In the traditional restaurants you can sit comfortably, with great views and good food. The prices here are also incredibly low by European standards. You can easily expect to spend €25-30 on for a whole restaurant visit.
Here are restaurants and cafés that we can definitely recommend to you:
Mostar is compact, so walking is often the best way to explore the city. From the Old Town to the iconic Stari Most, everything is within a short stroll. We loved just wandering the cobblestone streets, discovering cafés, local shops and hidden viewpoints along the Neretva River.
You can easily get from A to B by car, bus or taxi. However, exploring the city on foot is generally the best way to do so. It’s very compact, relaxed, and easy to navigate. If you want to explore places outside of Mostar, then a car, bus or taxi makes more sense.
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