A Journey Into the Heart of the Ancient Medina♥︎
Fes feels like stepping into another century. The moment you enter its ancient medina, the noise of the modern world fades and is replaced by the rhythm of daily life that hasn’t changed for centuries. Narrow alleys twist between centuries-old walls, the scent of spices hangs in the air, and every corner seems to hide a story waiting to be discovered. It’s chaotic, beautiful, overwhelming and completely unforgettable.
a living maze of history, culture, and everyday magic
Fes is located in northern Morocco, nestled between the Rif Mountains and the Middle Atlas range. Its inland location, away from the coast, gives the city a distinct sense of isolation from modern coastal tourism hubs like Casablanca or Tangier. This location has helped Fes preserve its deep cultural and historical identity over centuries.
As one of Morocco’s oldest imperial cities, Fes has long been a spiritual and intellectual center of the country. The ancient city is undoubtedly one of Morocco’s most popular destinations and is therefore easily accessible by plane, train, bus, or car.
Getting to Fes is part of the adventure. Morocco’s ancient imperial city isn’t hidden, but it also doesn’t sit on the typical “tourist highway”, which is exactly what makes arriving here feel like you’re stepping into something deeper, older, and more authentic.
Whether you’re coming from another Moroccan city or flying in from abroad, there are several ways to reach Fes depending on your time, budget, and travel style.
The easiest and most direct way to get to Fes is by flying into Fès-Saïs Airport, FEZ located about 20-30 minutes from the city center.
The airport is small but efficient, with connections mainly from Europe and other Moroccan cities. You’ll often find flights from places like Paris, Madrid, Barcelona, and sometimes low-cost carriers depending on the season.
From the airport, you can easily take:
A taxi (fixed price, around 200-250 MAD, 20-25€)
Or pre-booked transfers directly to your riad in the medina
One of the most popular ways to reach Fez is by train with ONCF Moroccan Railways. Morocco’s rail network is surprisingly comfortable and reliable, especially on routes between major cities like Casablanca, Rabat, and Meknes.
From:
Casablanca → ~4 hours
Rabat → ~3.5 hours
Meknes → ~40 minutes
👉 Good to know: You can buy tickets directly at the train station, and first class is usually highly recommended.
For budget travelers, long-distance buses are widely available through companies like CTM Morocco Bus. Buses connect Fes with almost every major city in Morocco, including Marrakech, Tangier, and Agadir.
They’re:
If you’re not in a rush, this is a great way to experience Morocco alongside locals.
If you like flexibility and scenic stops along the way, renting a car is a great option. Roads in Morocco have improved significantly, and driving to Fes gives you access to hidden towns and landscapes most travelers miss.
Popular routes:
👉 Just keep in mind: driving into the old medina is not possible. You’ll park outside and walk or take a short taxi ride into the heart of the city.
Arriving by Car in Fes!?
Arriving in Fes by car is one of the most flexible ways to reach the city, especially if you’re exploring Morocco on a road trip. But there are a few things I should know beforehand.
🅿️ Parking Outside the Medina
There are several secure parking options around the city center of Fes. These usually cost around 10-50 dirhams (1-5€).
Around the Tour de Fès N road, you’ll find several large, secure parking lots, perfect for exploring the city.
🧭 Finding Your Way In
Navigation inside Fes can be tricky, even for experienced travelers. If you’re staying in a riad, it’s highly recommended to arrange a meet-up or transfer with your host.
Many riads will send someone to guide you from the parking area directly to your accommodation, a small detail that makes a huge difference the first time you arrive.
Fes is not a city you simply “visit”, it’s a place you slowly step into. The longer you stay, the more it reveals itself. Behind every narrow alley, hidden door, and busy souk there’s another layer of history, craft, and everyday life waiting to be discovered.
The heart of Fes is the ancient medina, Fes el-Bali, one of the largest and most complex car-free urban areas in the world. The best thing you can do here is actually very simple: walk without a plan.
One moment you’re passing spice shops and leather stalls, the next you’re in a quiet side alley where time feels frozen. Getting lost here isn’t a mistake, it’s the experience.
👉 Tip: Google Maps works, but it can still be very difficult to navigate and recognize streets and paths.
One of the most iconic sights in the city. From the surrounding terraces, you look down into giant stone vats filled with natural dyes. The smell is intense, the colors unforgettable and the process has barely changed in centuries.
👉 Good to know: If you want to go to the popular terraces to get the perfect view of the Chouara Tannery, you will usually be approached by shop owners offering access through their leather stores. It’s completely normal in Fes, most viewpoints are located above small leather shops that lead you up to rooftop terraces. There’s usually no fixed entrance fee, but a small tip or purchase is expected and part of the local system.
One of the most important landmarks in Fes is the Al-Qarawiyyin Mosque, considered one of the oldest continuously operating universities in the world.
Even if parts are not accessible to non-Muslims, the surrounding architecture and courtyards alone are worth the visit. The atmosphere here is calm, spiritual, and deeply connected to the city’s intellectual history.
Fes markets aren’t just one area, they’re an entire living system. From spices and leather to metalwork and textiles, every alley specializes in something different. It’s easy to get lost here, in the best possible way.
👉 Tip: If you have the chance, hire a local guide to show you around. The medina of Fes consists of over 9,600 streets, alleys, and small passageways. It’s easy to get lost here, and Google Maps is definitely limited.
Climb up to a rooftop café or riad terrace and watch the city from above. The view of endless rooftops and minarets at sunset is one of the most memorable moments in Fes.
Throughout the medina, you’ll find many great rooftops with beautiful views of Fes and the surrounding landscape.
The markets inside Fes el-Bali are a constant flow of life, color, and movement. Narrow alleys are filled with small stalls selling spices, textiles, leather goods, and everyday essentials, all mixed into the rhythm of the old city.
You’ll often see artisans working right at their stalls, adding to the feeling that everything here is alive and constantly in motion.
The Al-Attarine Madrasa is a stunning 14th-century Islamic school hidden inside Fes el-Bali. It’s one of the most beautiful examples of traditional Moroccan architecture, known for its intricate tilework, carved wood, and peaceful courtyard.
📍 Location
You’ll find it deep in the medina, close to the souks and not far from other historic landmarks like the Al-Qarawiyyin area. It’s easy to miss while wandering, but well worth looking out for.
🎟️ Entry & Price
Yes, it’s open to visitors. The entrance fee is usually around 20-50 MAD (approx. 2–5 EUR) per person.
✨ What to expect
Inside, the noise of the medina disappears and you step into a quiet, beautifully detailed courtyard. It’s small, but incredibly atmospheric, a perfect example of Fes’ craftsmanship and history in one place.
Tucked away inside the medina, the Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts & Crafts is one of the most beautiful cultural spots in Fes. Located inside a restored historic fondouk, the museum showcases traditional Moroccan woodwork, tools, furniture, and craftsmanship that reflect the city’s artisan heritage.
Even if you’re not usually a museum person, the building itself is worth visiting. The detailed architecture, peaceful courtyard, and rooftop views over the medina make it a quiet escape from the busy souks outside.
👉 Good to know: The Nejjarine Museum is usually open daily from 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM and the entrance fee is typically around 20 MAD (about 2 EUR) per person.
Hidden behind worn walls and quiet streets, El Glaoui Palace feels like stepping into another era. The partially abandoned palace is known for its faded beauty, cracked tiles, old courtyards, carved wooden doors, and rooms slowly being reclaimed by time.
Unlike the more restored landmarks in Fes, El Glaoui Palace feels raw and atmospheric, which makes exploring it especially memorable.
🎟️ Entrance & Opening Hours
The palace is usually open during daytime hours, although schedules can vary. Entrance is typically around 20 MAD (approx. 2 EUR) per person, and local guides are often available near the entrance.
👉 Good to know: The palace is located close to the medina and can easily be combined with nearby souks and historic sites while exploring Fes.
When we travel, we always save the best places we discover from hidden viewpoints and cozy cafés to beautiful beaches and must-see spots. To make trip planning easier, we created interactive travel maps with all our favorite locations in one place. Simply open the map and explore the places we personally visited.
Note: The buttons and images above link to our interactive travel maps hosted on Rexby, where you can explore all saved locations in detail. Thanks for your support friends!
Choosing where to stay in Fes is almost as important as the city itself. The experience changes completely depending on whether you sleep inside the ancient medina or outside in the modern city. Fes isn’t just a destination, it’s a feeling, and where you stay shapes that feeling from the very first moment you wake up.
The most magical place to stay is inside Fes el-Bali. Here, you don’t just visit the old city, you live inside it.
Traditional riads are hidden behind unassuming doors, but once you step inside, everything changes. Quiet courtyards, tiled fountains, and carved wooden details create a completely different world compared to the busy alleys outside.
Waking up here means hearing the early sounds of the medina, footsteps, distant calls, and the slow start of daily life. It’s immersive, atmospheric, and easily the most authentic way to experience Fes.
In Fes, you’ll mainly stay in riads rather than large hotels. A riad is a traditional Moroccan house built around a central courtyard.
👉 Most riads in the medina are:
Hotels exist, but they are mostly located outside the old city and feel more modern and international, comfortable, but less atmospheric.
During our stay in Fes, we stayed at Riad Zamane Fès, a traditional riad hidden inside the narrow streets of the medina. Like many riads in Fes, it feels almost invisible from the outside, but once inside, the atmosphere becomes calm, quiet, and incredibly authentic.
After long days exploring the busy souks and ancient alleys, returning to the peaceful courtyard of the riad quickly became one of our favorite parts of the experience.
If you prefer easier access, taxis, and modern infrastructure, staying outside the medina is an option. You’ll find larger hotels and apartments in the new city area.
This is practical, but you’ll miss the experience of stepping directly into the historic heart of Fes every time you walk out your door.
👉 Best Areas to Stay
If it’s your first time in Fes, staying inside the medina is almost essential. The city changes completely at night and early morning when the crowds fade and everything feels slower, more intimate, and deeply timeless.
Fes isn’t just a place you visit, it’s a place you wake up inside.
Food in Fes feels deeply connected to the city itself, rich, layered, traditional, and full of small surprises. From tiny hidden cafés inside the medina to rooftop restaurants overlooking the old city, eating in Fes is much more than just a break between sightseeing.
What makes food in Fes special isn’t just the taste, it’s the setting. Eating inside centuries-old courtyards, hidden riads, or small market streets turns every meal into part of the experience.
In Fes, food feels less like tourism and more like stepping into everyday Moroccan life.
👉 A few things you shouldn’t miss:
Fes is known for some of Morocco’s most traditional dishes. You’ll find slow-cooked tagines, fragrant couscous, fresh bread, grilled meats, and sweet pastries almost everywhere in the medina. Many small local restaurants still prepare meals using recipes passed down through generations.
One of the best parts of eating in Fes is how authentic everything feels. Most places are small, family-run, and focused more on atmosphere and tradition than modern presentation.
👉 Here are some of our favorite restaurants around Fes:
💡 Good to know: Many cafes, bars, and restaurants in Fes now accept card payments, but not all. Therefore, always carry some cash.
Some of the best cafés in Fes are hidden above the busy streets of the medina. After wandering through crowded souks and narrow alleys, sitting on a quiet rooftop with some drinks and views over the old city feels like a completely different world.
These rooftops are perfect for slowing down, especially in the late afternoon when the city begins to soften and the call to prayer echoes across the rooftops.
Fes has countless small cafés hidden throughout the medina, from tiny local coffee spots to beautiful rooftop terraces overlooking the old city.
👉 Here are some of our favorite Cafes around the Medina of Fes:
Fes is probably more relaxed and traditional than cities like Marrakech, but you can still find alcohol in some riads, hotels, and rooftop restaurants. Inside the medina, mint tea, Moroccan coffee, and fresh orange juice are the most common drinks and part of everyday life.
For cocktails, wine, or beer, some rooftop terraces and modern restaurants are usually the best spots to enjoy a quiet evening overlooking the old city. The best way to do this is to ask the locals or simply Google it.
Fes is a city you can visit all year round, but the experience changes a lot depending on the season. From hot summer days inside the medina to cool winter mornings in traditional riads, every time of year gives the city a different atmosphere.
Spring is one of the best times to visit Fes. Temperatures are warm but comfortable, usually between 20-28°C (68-82°F), making it perfect for walking through the medina for hours without the intense summer heat.
The city feels lively during this time, rooftops are full in the evenings, and the surrounding landscapes around Fes become greener after winter. If you want pleasant weather for sightseeing, photography, and exploring the souks, spring is ideal.
Autumn is another perfect season to visit Fes. The intense summer temperatures slowly disappear, but the city still stays warm and sunny. It’s one of the best times for wandering through the medina, visiting rooftops, and exploring historical sites comfortably.
The light during autumn is especially beautiful for photography, giving the old city warm golden tones throughout the day.
For many travelers, autumn offers the best balance between good weather, fewer crowds, and comfortable evenings.
Summer in Fes can get extremely hot. Temperatures regularly climb above 40°C (104°F), especially in July and August. Inside the narrow streets of the medina, the heat can feel even more intense because of the dense buildings and limited airflow.
However, summer also has a unique atmosphere. Mornings are quieter, rooftops stay busy late into the night, and the city feels more local as fewer international tourists visit during peak heat.
👉 If you visit in summer:
Winter in Fes is often underrated. During the day, temperatures are usually mild and pleasant, but mornings and evenings can get surprisingly cold, especially inside traditional riads with stone walls and open courtyards.
The medina becomes less crowded, and exploring feels slower and more atmospheric.
👉 If you visit in winter:
🌦️
⌀16°C
Jan
🌦️
⌀18°C
Feb
🌸
⌀21°C
Mar
🌿
⌀24°C
Apr
🌼
⌀28°C
May
☀️
⌀30°C
June
☀️
⌀33°C
July
☀️
⌀35°C
Aug
🌤️
⌀29°C
Sep
🍂
⌀24°C
Oct
🍁
⌀21°C
Nov
🌦️
⌀17°C
Dec
If you’re planning your trip, go for:
🌸 Spring (March-May) or
🍂 Autumn (September-November)
The weather is comfortable, the medina is easier to explore, and the city feels alive without the exhausting summer heat.
But honestly, Fes has something special in every season. The city changes with the weather and that’s part of what makes it unforgettable.
Getting around Fes is part of the experience itself. The city is a mix of modern roads outside and a completely pedestrian world inside the old medina, so the way you move changes depending on where you are.
Inside the medina, there are no cars, no scooters, and no real traffic rules, just narrow alleyways, stairs, and endless turns. The best (and often only) way to get around is on foot.
It’s very easy to get lost here, but that’s normal. In fact, it’s part of the experience. The streets are like a maze, and every turn leads to something unexpected, a hidden shop, a courtyard, or a quiet corner away from the chaos.
👉 If you want to make things easier:
Outside the medina, taxis are the main way to get around Fes. They are cheap and widely available.
👉 There are two types:
Petit taxis (small city taxis) → for short distances
Grand taxis → for longer rides or airport transfers
Always make sure the meter is used or agree on a price before starting your ride.
If you’re staying inside the medina, taxis will drop you at one of the main gates. From there, it’s usually a short walk (or porter help with luggage) to your riad. This transition from modern streets into the ancient city is one of the most memorable parts of arriving in Fes.
Fes is one of the most fascinating cities in Morocco, but it can also feel overwhelming at first. The medina is huge, the streets are confusing, and the pace of life is intense, which is exactly why a few simple travel tips can make your experience much smoother and more enjoyable.
Inside Fes el-Bali, GPS often struggles with the narrow streets and dense layout. It’s better to use maps as a rough guide rather than a strict route. Getting a little lost is completely normal and often leads to the best discoveries.
Alternatively, you can book a local guide who will lead you through the approximately 9,600 alleyways of the medina and show you the coolest and best spots in the city.
In the medina, locals will often offer directions, sometimes for a small tip. It’s part of the culture here. If someone helps you find your way, a small gesture of appreciation is normal and expected.
But be careful, because there are some people who will try to sell you on being a guide or show you the way and then demand money.
Outside the medina, always confirm the price before getting into a petit taxi if the meter isn’t used. Prices are usually reasonable, but agreeing beforehand avoids misunderstandings.
Staying inside the old city makes a huge difference. You can step directly into the atmosphere of Fes every morning and experience the city at its most authentic.
Fes changes completely depending on the time. Early mornings are calm and atmospheric, while afternoons are busy and energetic. Evenings feel softer, with rooftops and cafés becoming the best places to relax.
Walking through the medina can be intense, especially in warmer months. Carry water, take breaks in cafés or rooftops, and don’t try to rush the experience.
Yes, Fes is one of Morocco’s most authentic and historic cities. It offers a completely different experience compared to Marrakech, with a more traditional atmosphere, fewer crowds, and a deeply cultural medina.
Fes is located in northern Morocco, between the Rif Mountains and the Middle Atlas region. The city is inland and not far from other major destinations like Meknes and Chefchaouen.
It’s generally not recommended to drink tap water in Fes. While it is treated, many travelers prefer bottled water to avoid any stomach issues. Bottled water is cheap and widely available in shops, cafés, and riads throughout the city. For brushing teeth, tap water is usually fine.
Yes, especially inside Fes el-Bali. The medina is a maze of narrow streets with very little signage, so getting lost is normal. It’s part of the experience.
The best option is staying inside the medina in a traditional riad. This allows you to fully experience the atmosphere of the old city from morning to night.
Fes is served by Fès–Saïs Airport, located about 20-30 minutes outside the city center. It sits southwest of Fes and is easily reachable by taxi or pre-arranged transfer.
From the airport, you can reach the medina, Fes el-Bali, directly by car, most rides cost a fixed price and take around half an hour depending on traffic.
Fes is generally affordable compared to European destinations. Food, taxis, and accommodation can fit most budgets, especially if you stay in local riads and eat in traditional restaurants.
Most mosques, including Al-Qarawiyyin Mosque, are not open to non-Muslim visitors inside. However, many courtyards and exterior areas can still be admired.
Yes, Fes is generally safe for travelers. Like any busy city, it’s important to stay aware of your belongings, especially in crowded areas of the medina.
1-2 days is ideal to explore the medina, visit historical sites, enjoy the food, and experience the atmosphere without rushing.
